This two-day journey on Mount Cevedale, with an overnight stay at Rifugio Martello / Martellenhütte, offers a truly captivating experience in one of the most remarkable corners of the Eastern Alps. It’s a classic glacier experience, striking an ideal balance between challenge and reward.
Highlights
Experience the wonder of reaching two summits above 3700m / 12139' in a single day.Gaze out over sweeping views of Gran Zebrù, Ortles, Cima della Mare, and the vast Ortles-Cevedale massif.
Spend the night in a warm and welcoming mountain rifugio.
Delight in the rich flavours of traditional alpine cuisine.
Itinerary
Rising to 3769m / 12365', Mount Cevedale is the highest peak in Trentino and a majestic presence at the heart of the Cevedale Group. Located between Val di Sole and Val Martello, it stands at the junction of three valleys—Martello, Peio, and Valfurva—and forms the central peak of the Cevedale–San Matteo subgroup, from which its three main ridges extend.
This two-day glacier experience offers one of the most breathtaking climbs in the Eastern Alps. The views are simply spectacular, and the high-altitude route calls for good physical fitness, proper gear, and experience on ice—or the guidance of a certified mountain professional. Dolomite360 invites you to join a two-day experience led by a UIAGM / IFMGA-certified mountain guide.
On the first day, meet at Rifugio Genziana (2,051m /6729') in Val Martello and hike for around two hours to reach Rifugio Martello (2610m / 8563'), your base for the night.
On the second day, after a hearty breakfast, set off early toward the summit. The route first leads across the glacial moraine, then follows a ridge to Cima Cevedale / Zufallspitze (3757m / 12326'), before reaching the main peak of Mount Cevedale (3769m / 12365'). Though technically manageable, this is a demanding ascent that unfolds in an extraordinary natural setting—one of the most rewarding mountaineering adventures in the Eastern Alps.
Return to Rifugio Genziana by retracing your steps.
In addition to good fitness, the following equipment is essential:
- Mountaineering boots
- Long trousers
- Fleece layer
- Windbreaker
- Hat and gloves
- Sunglasses
- Backpack (min. 25L /6,6 gal) with water and snacks
- Glacier gear: crampons, ice axe, harness
We recommend dressing in layers to adjust easily to changing temperatures and weather conditions.
Programma ( 2 )
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Day 1
Day 1 Ascent to Rifugio Martello / Martellenhütte
Meet your UIAGM / IFMGA-certified mountain guide at Rifugio Genziana / Enzianhütte (2,051m /6729'), which can be easily reached by car.Begin your journey with an enjoyable ascent through woods and meadows to Rifugio Martello / Martellenhütte (2610m / 8563'), your home for the night. As you make your way to the rifugio, the path becomes increasingly rocky and steep, although it is still considered an “easy” trail.The rifugio is welcoming and ideal for relaxing, unwinding, and taking in the stunning views of the surrounding mountains, such as the Cevedale and the Gran Zebrù.As the afternoon turns into evening, prepare for a delicious traditional mountain dinner with local dishes like canederli (bread dumplings), speck (smoked cured meat), and cheeses.(Approx. 2 hours hiking / 4.3 km / 2,6 miles, 547m / 1795' ascent) -
Day 2
Day 2 From Rifugio Martello / Martellenhütte to the peak of Monte Cevedale and descent Rise before dawn.
After a solid breakfast at the rifugio, you’ll begin the most challenging section of the excursion. The trail initially crosses rocky and loose moraine terrain before leading up to the glacier. Around 2900m /9514', you’ll put on your crampons — this is where the actual glacial traverse begins.The ascent continues over steady, moderate inclines. While not technically difficult, this section requires attention due to the presence of crevasses and occasional exposed passages. This is typically where a roped glacier team is formed, following standard glacier travel procedures.The route climbs diagonally toward the Cevedale Pass (3460m / 11352'), located between Mount Cevedale and Zebrù III. The views from this point are spectacular, spanning the Gran Zebrù, Ortles, Palon de la Mare, and the entire Ortles-Cevedale massif.From the pass, a steeper final slope leads to the summit of Cima Cevedale / Zufallspitze (3757m / 12326'). The final 100 -150m / 328'- 492' of elevation gain are the most demanding, often on hard snow or bare ice depending on time and conditions.The ridge linking Cima Cevedale / Zufallspitze to the summit of Mount Cevedale (3769m / 12365') is not technically difficult but requires appropriate roped progression and careful footing.At the summit cross, you’ll be rewarded with outstanding panoramic views of the Central Alps — including the Ortles, Adamello, Bernina, the Dolomites, and the Austrian Alps.Descent is along the same route, with continued attention to the glacier and terrain conditions.(Approx. 8 hours hiking / 17km / 10,5 miles, 1303m / 4275' ascent, 1850m / 6070' descent.)
More information
More information
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