Conquer the summit of the Ortles, South Tyrol’s highest peak — a towering, imposing mountain cloaked in ice. This guided itinerary is both demanding and technically challenging, unfolding across a glacier with steep inclines. Solid fitness and prior experience using crampons and an ice axe are essential.
Highlights
Discover the vast icy expanse of the Ortles, etched with deep crevasses and shaped by slopes as steep as 35°.Reach the summit of South Tyrol’s highest mountain.
Spend the night in a historic mountain rifugio at 3020m / 9908'.
Itinerary
At 3905m / 12812', the Ortles is the highest peak in South Tyrol and the entire Ortles-Cevedale Group.
Often referred to as the “King of South Tyrol,” this majestic ice-covered mountain dominates the landscape with its unmistakable silhouette—visible from great distances, even from the Dolomites on clear days.
Geographically, the Ortles belongs to the Southern Rhaetian Alps and marks the highest point of the Stelvio National Park, a protected area of exceptional natural beauty.
What makes this mountain so captivating is its wild, austere nature, the variety of routes it offers—from classic alpine ascents to sweeping glacier traverses—and the weight of its history.
Today, the Ortles is a coveted goal for experienced hikers and mountaineers who approach it via both rocky and glaciated routes. Among these, the most popular is the normal route from Solda, also known as the Bivacco Lombardi route.
This ascent takes place over two days, accompanied by a certified UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide. On the first day, you'll hike from Solda to Rifugio Payer (3020m / 9908'); on the second day, you’ll climb to the summit (3905m / 12812').
This is a technically demanding route that requires strong physical condition and prior experience using crampons and an ice axe.
In addition, the following equipment is essential:
- Mountaineering boots
- Long trousers
- Fleece layer
- Windbreaker
- Hat and gloves
- Sunglasses
- Backpack (min. 25L /6,6 gal) with water and snacks
- Glacier gear: crampons, ice axe, harness
We recommend dressing in layers to adjust easily to changing temperatures and weather conditions.
Programma ( 2 )
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Day 1
Day 1: from Solda to Rifugio Payer
In the morning, meet your UIAGM / IFMGA-certified mountain guide in Solda / Sulden (1900m / 6234'), where your journey begins. The initial stretch is a gentle uphill hike through a charming stone pine forest, leading to the Vedretta di Marlet moraine—what remains of an ancient glacier, now covered in scree.The trail then climbs steeply for a short distance to Rifugio Tabaretta (2556m /8386'), a perfect spot to rest and perhaps enjoy lunch.From the hut, continue toward Forcella dell’Orso (2879m / 9445'), ascending along the northern slope of the ridge to reach Passo della Tabaretta (2883m / 9459'). Some sections here are exposed, but well secured.The final climb brings you to Rifugio Payer (3020m / 9908'), a panoramic mountain hut named after Julius Payer, famed cartographer and Arctic explorer.The views from here are spectacular: sweeping across the Trafoi and Solda valleys, the Swiss and Austrian Alps to the north, the Upper Venosta Valley and the Resia Pass. To the south rises the majestic Ortles—your goal for tomorrow.(Approx. 4-hour hike 7,1 km /4,4 miles, 1177m / 3861' ascent.) -
Day 2
Day 2: The Ortles Peak
Today’s ascent begins at dawn, climbing the northern slope of Punta Tabaretta over scattered boulders and easy rock. This leads to the Wandln, a steep rock face marking the most technical section of the entire route.Beyond this point, the trail continues across a snow-covered slope with a 30° gradient—often icy and requiring the use of crampons and an ice axe.This stretch brings you to the distinctive glacial basin known as the Buca dell’Orso (3200m / 10499'), and from there to the Tschierfegg ridge (3361m / 11027'), home to Bivacco Lombardi—a crucial emergency shelter in case of unexpected events or challenging conditions.From the bivouac, the route proceeds onto the glacier: this is the most delicate section in terms of glacier travel, with numerous wide crevasses and inclines reaching up to 35°.It is essential to proceed roped up and to assess the terrain carefully, especially later in the season. Your guide will determine the safest and most suitable line.This section leads to the summit plateau—a vast, snow-covered expanse just below the Ortles peak. From here, a gentle final ascent brings you to the summit of the Ortles (3905m / 11812').The descent follows the same route back to Solda, concluding a demanding but unforgettable journey through rock, ice, and the silence of high altitudes.(Approx. 8-hour hike / 13,9 km / 8,6 miles, 958m / 3143' ascent, 2148m / 7047' descent.)
More information
More information
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